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Determining What Size Pattern To Make

Many of us have purchased a pattern in what we thought was our size, only to find out that what we thought – is not what the pattern makers thought. Your best bet whenever you buy a pattern for anything is to test it out before possibly ruining your favorite fabric that you just spent your hard earned money on.

First, take accurate measurements of your body. Get help if you can, if your elbows are pointing out, the bust measurement isn’t necessarily accurate. Measure your bust, waist, and hips. Measure the distance between these measurements. Inseam (crotch to ankle), out seam (waist to ankle), arm length, back length, etc., are not necessary for every pattern, but take what you need. If you’ve got help, you may as well take all of your measurements and just store them with your patterns.

Before cutting out a multi-sized pattern look for the measurements on the tissue. Often you will be one size at the bust, different size at the waist and hip. Look at the measurements between the horizontal measurements, is the distance between your bust and waist longer or shorter than “industry standard”? If so, now is the time for easy changes. If your body is 2″ longer than the pattern, cut all of the pieces and tape a 2″ piece of paper in between. This is the “cut and spread” method of pattern alteration. If your body is shorter than the pattern, simply fold the pattern pieces to take out the excess. True up the curved lines and walk your pattern pieces along the seams to make sure that they still match each other.

Keep in mind that on the envelope the size 10 may say it’s for a 40″ hip, while the finished garment may have a 42″ hip ‘for ease’. Meaning they’ve allowed extra for you to bend over and sit. There may be extra ease in the bust for you to reach up. The ease they allow may or may not be what you are looking for, it also may throw you off as to what size you wear. You may want to compare what they give as the actual measurements to your own body, hold the tape measure at the exact measurement listed on the tissue around your body at the same place. Is is snug, loose, way too loose?

Once you have decided on the size to cut, I suggest that you always make a mock up first in muslin. (If you can’t find muslin you can use some old sheets. *If you sew in knits, save your old knit sheets to use as “muslin” to make mock ups.)
Try the garment on with the seam allowances on the outside so you can draw or pin what alterations you need to make. Again, this is usually easier with help from a friend. Remember to check for wearing comfort. Can you bend, sit, walk up stairs? You don’t want to split a seam while wearing your brand new creation. Transfer any necessary changes to the paper patterns.

When you are happy with the fit you can cut your pattern in the fabric of your choice, with the confidence that you will get exactly what you envisioned.

*Grading refers to taking a pattern and mathematically adjusting the size up or down at multiple locations horizontally and vertically. Unless you are making a size run of a single pattern, or you buy a size 24 and need a size 8, it is not necessary to grade it. If you love fractions and algebra (like me) you may want to learn this technique, but it can be confusing. If you want a quick reference check out this awesome article from Threads Magazine.

~Happy Sewing, Amy Delicious

Posted in Bra Making, Corset Making, Costume Making, News & Updates, Tips & Tricks... | Leave a comment

Bonnie as Captian Marvel

Our friend Bonnie went to Wizard World Comic Con Philadelphia this year and wanted to go with a group of “Captains”, so she was Captain Marvel! (Haven’t seen the photos of Cap’n Crunch yet…)
Delicious Corsets made the corset for the costume and Bonnie created the rest of the costume. I’m sure it was a hit! Her smile says it all!

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Posted in Corset Making, Costume Making, Customer Creations!, In-House Creations!, News & Updates | Leave a comment

Meg ~ Our Queen of Cosplay

When she isn’t pulling the boning and underwires for your orders, our dear Meg is sewing and displaying some truly amazing Cosplay costumes!

Here she is as Rin from Love Live!
Photo by Jalissa Magalong

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Merry G’s “The Little Mermaid”

Our friend Merry G costumed a performance of “The Little Mermaid” and sent us the photos of what she created using supplies from MakingItYourself.com

Great job! Such beautiful work!


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Lily~Delicious Collaboration

Delicious Corsets created the corset, and the lovely Lily adorned it and encrusted it with even more style! Lily created the rest of this beautiful costume!
This performance must have been amazing, the photos are stunning! Thanks for sharing!
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Posted in Corset Making, Costume Making, Customer Creations!, In-House Creations!, News & Updates | Leave a comment

Replacing Corset Bones

Do you want to replace a corset’s plastic bones with steel bones?
Does your corset have incorrectly measured boning lengths?
Do you need to repair bent or broken corset bones?

Well, here’s a great “how-to” video from our friend Lucy!

 

 

You can view more great videos from Lucy at: Lucy Corsetry

 

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A Great Review from Lucy’s Corsetry

Thanks Lucy, for the great review of products from CorsetMaking.com!

 

 

You can view more great videos from Lucy at: Lucy Corsetry

 

Posted in Corset Making, Product Review | Leave a comment

MIY Inspiration: Each X Other Spring 2016 Collection

From the Each X Other Spring 2016 Collection.

Creative use for the Premium Hook and Eye Tapes available at MakingItYourself.

#MIYinspirations

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Premium Eye Tape – Black

http://corsetmaking.com/corset-tapes-trims/CMS-TT-ETB.html

 

Premium Hook Tape - Black

Premium Hook Tape – Black

http://corsetmaking.com/corset-tapes-trims/CMS-TT-HTB.html

 

Posted in Costume Making, Inspirations, Tips & Tricks... | Leave a comment

How to Measure Underwires

It’s really hard to know what bra size you wear, let alone what size underwire you need.
Every company that makes bras and bra sewing patterns has their own sizing, some overlap, but often they don’t.

When viewing an underwire product page on our site you’ll notice a button along the side labeled “+ Technical Specs” – Clicking this link will display the exact measurements of the underwires.

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This is what you’ll see:

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If you are unsure how to get the Length, Depth, and Width use this as your guide.

UnderwiresGraphic

The Length is measured around the curve from tip to tip. The Width is straight across from tip to tip. The Depth is measured from the center point of the Width to the bottom of the curve.

Happy Bra Making!
~Amy

Posted in Bra Making, Costume Making, Tips & Tricks... | Leave a comment

A Corset ‘Life-Hack’ From Our Friend Lucy

Here’s an interesting technique in busk repair shared by our friend Lucy.

 

 

You can view more great videos from Lucy at: Lucy Corsetry

 

Posted in Corset Making, Tips & Tricks... | Leave a comment