The easiest way I’ve found to attach boning tips is as follows….
Using a pair of needle-nose pliers crimp the sides of the tip inward BEFORE putting the tip on the piece of cut spiral steel boning.
After crimping the sides in quite often a little pucker or bump is created in the top of the tip… to get rid of this hold the sides of the tip (so they dont spread back any wider) and then use the needle-nose to crimp in the little pucker that formed at the top of the tip…
The trick is to have the tip pre-crimped just a little smaller than the width of the boning. When you slide the boning into the tip it will open just enough to allow the boning to slide in, but will still grip tightly around it.
Once the tip is on the boning and does not slide or move you can dip the ends into Tipping Fluid to form a more permanent bond. If you choose to do this, you should let the ends dry for about an hour (more or less depending on humidity, etc) before inserting them into the bone casings.
….That’s the method we’ve always used. Hope it helps!
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I have been making corsets for many years for my daughter. We have had some problems with the tips coming off of the bones and I am glad to hear that there is something that I can dip the tips in to help bond them. Can you tell me the name of the product you used and where I can get it? My other problem is the cup on the corset. We have from under the bust and down just the way we want it but she is quite busty and we have had a big problem containing her bust without having “muffins” over the top of the cup. I would love to correspond with you if you had had this problem, know anyone who has or if you have any thoughts you could give me about this. Thanks for your help and look forward to hearing from you soon!
It’s called “tipping fluid” or “tool dip.” It can be purchased at the hardware store, usually near hand tools, and it’s intended use is to create a plastic cushion grip on hand tools like pliers and wire snippers… both tools I’m sure you have, so this is a win for when the rubber stuff on the handle starts to crack and peel as well as the ends of the bones.
Another product that may be useful is quick set epoxy… maybe not the best choice if you’re doing many bones at once, though. Loctite brand makes my personal fave, and it comes in a little yellow syringe hanging on a peg near the painter’s tape. It comes with a little “needle” tip, but don’t screw around with that– just mix it on a piece of tin foil with a toothpick and work very quickly. Just make sure you wash the ends of the bones with soap to get the greasy stuff off first, and dry them COMPLETELY before you glue.
Hi. I have delayed until I am absolutely sure my client really wants me to continue. And she does. So, my question: the hoop skirt making is short and actually has 2 hoops that are exactly the same . They are about 10? apart. The shape resembles 2 U’s attached. The skirt is not a circle. My concern is how will the hoop ends be attached? I am using buckram covered steel boning. What can be used to connect the ends?
She will remove the hoop wire for laundering the skirt. You only have 1/4″ and 1/2″ tips. I did not order them because the hoop wire is 3/8″. Will there be a need for the tips and if so, which would I need?
The 1/2″ tips are the correct size to cap the hoop boning. Because the cap is just a little bit wider this allows it to accommodate the boning. The fit of the cap is usually tight enough over the hoop boning that no additional crimping is necessary, however if you plan on taking the boning in and out of a casing you may want to crimp them a bit tighter to reduce the chance of the tips slipping.