How to Set a Busk

By Amy Delicious - January 22, 2015 - originally posted on our Of Corset Fits blog

Corset busks are a standard closure for the center front of a modern corset. They come in several varieties of shape, metal finishes, and qualities. Busks are also available in many lengths to provide a suitable closure for everything from a short waist cincher to a long-line corset.

In this article we will be looking at an 11 inch "Standard Busk."

When you measure the front of your corset for a busk, remember to leave room at the top and bottom for finishing. I leave 5/8" at top and bottom so I can sew 1/2" bias tape and not break needles while sewing it on. I draft my Center Front to be 12.25" to accommodate an 11" busk.

Step 1 - Set the Eye Side First

From the wrong side of your face fabric you will mark for the eye openings. Place the eye side of the busk directly onto the fabric with the bar up - this will make sure the busk is facing the correct way in the garment. If you are using 1/2" seam allowance, you can lay the busk onto your fabric with the round edge of the eye at the cut edge of the fabric. It will place the bar of the busk 1/2" from the edge. Use a chalk pencil to mark the outside of the eyes.

Step 2 - Sew the Front Edge

Pin your face fabric to the lining, right sides together. Sew your entire front edge, top to bottom, leaving openings where you marked the eyes.

Step 3 - Insert the Eyes

Press the seam open, then insert the busk's eyes through the openings. Make sure the silver eye is closest to the face, and the white bar side of the busk is closest to the lining. Make sure your seam allowance is clearly out of the way of the openings.

Step 4 - Pin and Baste

Pin and then baste in place.

Step 5 - Set the Post Side Next

Pin your face fabric to the lining, right sides together. Sew down the entire front edge. Turn right sides out and press flat. Place both sides together with the eyes on top of the fabric. Mark the center of each eye with a pin or chalk pencil.

Step 6 - Push the Posts Through

[Using an awl](corsetmakers-awl.html), make a hole in the face fabric as large as needed to push the post through. Go slowly so that you don't tear the fibers. You can always put the awl back through the hole to make it larger if necessary. The awl will push the fibers out, and when removed the fibers will gradually pull back together around the post.
CorsetMaker's Awl opening a hole in the face fabric at a marked post position

Step 7 - Baste and Stitch

When all of the posts are through the face fabric, pin, then baste in place. Sew along the edge of the busk using a zipper foot. Remove your basting stitches.

Enjoy making your corset!

~Amy Delicious

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Comments & Questions

  1. Torhalla says:

    May 15, 2015 at 11:51 am

    I read this, curious to see if you did it any differently than I do. I was pleased to see my brain had worked out the process in the same fashion. I guess that kind of thinking comes from my years and years of sewing. I wouldn’t have been able to write the process up so nicely though.
    Reply to Torhalla

    1. CorsetMaking says:

      May 18, 2015 at 8:23 pm

      Thanks! Over the 19+ years of making Delicious Corsets I have accepted nearly 80 interns from area colleges and universities, even a few high school students. I don't have the time to take on any new interns, but I figured I could still get the information out there. Some of these posts are really aimed at beginners, but even after years of corset making I still have "ah-hah" moments and think "why didn't I think of that years ago!" So, some posts may even help out seasoned professionals, and maybe people will teach me a few tricks in commenting! ~Amy Delicious
      Reply to CorsetMaking

  2. Alaina says:

    September 30, 2017 at 9:09 pm

    Do you ever put the post side between the seam allowances? Poking holes in two layers is annoying, but the thickness imbalance has always bothered me. It just occurred to me that it would be fine to clip a little hole in the seam allowance layer, you wouldn’t have to use an awl.
    Reply to Alaina

    1. CorsetMaking says:

      October 2, 2017 at 1:17 pm

      We put the busk in so that the seam allowance wraps around the underside of the busk. That way the edge of the busk isn't directly against the seam, so it can't push through the seam. The benefit of using an awl is that it separates the fibers wide enough to let the post through without breaking any of them. After the widest part of the post goes through, the fibers tighten back up around it. Using an awl gives a cleaner, more professional finish. If you cut even a small hole, with prolonged wear it will fray and get larger. For an inexpensive tool, the [CorsetMaker's Awl](corsetmakers-awl.html) is an important one - you can also use it for rivets, 4-part snaps, eyelets and other embellishments. ~Amy
      Reply to CorsetMaking

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Supplies Used in This Tutorial

Standard Busk 11"

Standard Busk 11"

$14.50
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Standard Busk 12"

Standard Busk 12"

$14.50
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CorsetMaker's Awl

CorsetMaker's Awl

$11.50
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Bias Tape 1" Center Fold

Bias Tape 1" Center Fold

$1.00
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