One Response to stitch-detail

1. Wendell Cochran says:

   February 1, 2015 at 12:23 am

   From and old and retired costume cutter. Sometimes the center front of the corset needs a longer steel to complete the closing at the top, BUT the busk you have to work with is too short by about an inch or a little more. You could remove the bias braid, recut the top edge of the corset from the top of the bust to the center front seam (than re-seam the top edge and replace the bias tape finished) thus reducing the excess fabric above the top of the busk steel. Or, you could insert and additional steels (one for either side) that is longer in length than the busk steel opening. You simply cut or choose two extra steel (stay) that are the same width as the busk steel (more than like 3/8 inch or 1/2 inch wide) and slip them under the busk steel within the same casing. The extra steel will protrude above the top of the busk steel at the top edge. Finish the front top seam with tape or trim. Occasionally the top front will gape even when the busk steels are the correct length for the front opening casings (usually because the top edge of the finisher corset was eased into the finishing tape and became thusly small in diameter than the actual bust measurement.) In situations where there is an obvious gape you will “need” to sew on a large hook and loop inside the corset and under the finishing tape trim. A small yet lovely little ribbon bow will conceal the stitching and any glimpse of the steel hook and eye. You will have to order large hooks and eyes from a costume supplier; they are not available in mall-front fabric stores. Love the use of the iridescent umbra silk.

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